Home Construction

Hello everyone , welcome to Home construction shop and steps to Hand cut a basic Gable roof. For the layman a gable roof is depicted below. Note the ends are straight up and down as opposed to a cottage style roof or a Hip roof as it is referred to sometimes, where all side of the roof are sloping.. The Gable roof is fairly easy to build but is still a fair amount of work.

In his section of  Steps To Hand Cut a Gable Roof  the Home Construction Shop will cover the the procedure to measure and layout the rafters in your home construction project.

One of the most important tools to cut a gable roof is a framing square, here are some basic components of a framing square below. The shorter thinner measure of the square is known as the Tongue. This is the side that the lesser measurement of the pitch will be gauged when layng out the rafter for your gable roof. In a 7/12 pitch roof you would use the 7 inch mark  on the tongue measure. The longer , thicker measure of the square is known as the Blade. The larger of the measurements is gauged on this side. In a 7/12 pitch gable roof you would use the 12 inch mark on the blade measure. Always remember to gauge your measurements using the values on the outside of the square.

The first step in your home construction project of framing your gable roof , is to calculate the span of your rafters. The length of rafter is determined by two factors.

1. Roof  Pitch – This is ratio of horizontal length to vertical length. For example if the roof pitch is a 7/12 pitch. Which will be indicated in the drawing. For every 12″ of horizontal length or ” run” there is 7″ of vertical height or “rise”. The diagram below depicts this

2. Structure width- This is the width of the building as determined usually by the shortest span , or as indicated in the building drawings. This measurement would be taken from outside of the framing on one side of the structure to the out side of the framing on the other side. The diagram the Home ConstructionShop shows below depicts this measurement.

By dividing the span of the structure in half  we will be able to calculate the run of the rafters. As the Home Construction Shop depicted above , a span of 24 ft. divided in half will give the run of the rafter which is 12ft. Knowing , both the pitch and the run of the rafters it is easy to calculate the height that the roof will be from the top of the Wall to the very peak of the gable roof.

Since the pitch is 7/12, then for every 12″ or 1ft of run , the roof will rise 7″, so…. if the run of the rafters is half the span of the structure , 12ft as depicted above, then the roof will rise 7″ x 12 ft = 84″ or 7ft. I know this may be easy math for some and hard for others but at the Home Construction Shop we feel its good to go through to get the easier picture and a full understanding.

Now lets use a second example that’s a little more irregular.

Lets say that the span of the structure was 32ft. Then the run of the rafters would be half the span or 16ft. With a 7/12 pitch the rise of 7″ for every foot, then we would calculate 7″x16ft.=112″ = 9ft. 4″ from the top of the wall to the peak of the gable roof.

I hope you are still with me so far.

Now that we have our rise and run for the rafter lets go through the steps to layout the proper length of  the rafter using the first example of rise = 7′ and run= 12′. There are a couple methods of laying out the rafter for your gable roof. The quickest way at the Home Construction Shop would be to use trigonometry and the Pythagorean Theorem. This methods is calculated using the equation ( a2 + b2 = c2).  Below is a video with a bit of a math lesson showing  how to calculate the Pythagorean Theorem, assume that the letter X in the video is the rafter, lets have a look and then plug our own numbers in.

So , if we plugged in our numbers we could find the length of the rafter, lets see;

A² will represent the height of the gable roof from the top plate to the peak and we figured out that with the 7/12 pitch and half the span of the building at 12ft. A rise of 7″ for every 12″ or 1ft. would equal 84″ or 7 ft.

B² will represent the half span of the building which is 12ft.
C² represents the rafter. So..

A² = 7′
B² = 12′
C² = ?
7² = 49
12² = 144

(√ – represents square root)

A²+B²=C²
(7)²+(12)² = (C)²
49+144 = C²
√193 = √C²  
13.9′ = C or 13′ 10 7/8″= C (the length of the rafter)

The .9″ in 13.9 ft. is easily changed to inches by multiplying .9″ x 12″=10.8(10 7/8)

Once this measurement is achieved all you would have to do is mark your ridge cut and then measure down the rafter stock , 2×6 or 2×8 whatever you are using for your Home Construction gable roof framing project and mark the outside edge of the building or structure line , this is where the birds mouth will be cut out. See the first diagram below.

NOTE: In the second diagram below, the measures on the square are doubled  12″  on the tongue as shown and 24 ” on the blade. Here the diagram shows an 12/24  pitch setting on the square.  This is the same as a 6/12 pitch. Doing this gives you the full use of straight edges across your rafter to scribe or mark

The final mark on the edge of the square represents the outside of the structure and the plumb cut of the birds mouth. To mark out the birds mouth take note on the diagram below that the Home Construction Shop has provided.

Once you have the outside structure edge marked , take your square and flip it the opposite way with your measures still on the outside of the square but set on the top side of the rafter as the Home Construction shop has shown in the top diagram. Now slide the square so that the width measurement of the exterior wall top plate sits at the outside structure mark. In this top diagram it is showing using 4″  measured on the inside of the square. This measurement  represents the wall thickness where the birds mouth will sit on a 2×4 top plate, 31/2″ for the plate , and a 1/2 ” wall sheathing. Once this is marked remove the section shown.

Next step in your Home Construction gable roof framing project is to layout the overhang. View the diagram below

Once again with the square flipped and the gauged measures on the top side of the rafter, align the outside edge of the tongue with the back of the birds mouth as shown in the top diagram. Mark off 10 1/2 ” to represent the overhang. Now flip the square back over and align your tongue at the 10 1/2″ mark that you made with the pitch settings aligned with the bottom of the rafter as the Home construction Shop has shown in the bottom image.

The final cut is the fascia cut. The length of the fascia cut is determined by the width of the fascia. If you are using 2×6 for fascia the length of the fascia cut should be enough to account for soffit and fascia board.  So,  5 1/2″  for the 2×6, subtract 1/2″ – 3/4″ for soffit and fascia flashing = 4 3/4″ – 5″

Here is a sectional view of the components of a hand cut gable roof below.

Note:

You must make sure that you reduce the length of the rafter by 3/4″ before installing.  This is to compensate for the thickness of the ridge board. If the ridge board is 1 1/2″ thick (2×6) then each rafter for each side must be cut down by 3/4″ .  There may be instances where one might use a 1×6 for a ridge board thereby having to reduce the rafter length by half the thickness of this size of ridge board, which would be half of 3/4″ = 3/8″.

Well… I hope you have gotten a layman’s understanding of everything here to start your gable roof. If you have difficulty , feel free to comment and leave an email and Home Construction Shop will be glad to help more. Continue browsing the Home Construction Shop to learn how to measure your rafters using the square and the step down method. A little bit more time consuming but not difficult.

So c’mon in to the Home Construction Shop.

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New Table Saw Safety Technology

Construction Shop Safety First for Home Improvement

Home Improvement has become popular these days and along with it must come shop safety. Whether doing it to make a living, to save money, or for pure enjoyment, many people are drawn to the do-it-yourself trend. While this can be a very lucrative way to do construction, just like with professionals who build for a living, construction shop safety is a key to any project. Without using proper safety devices and procedures, disaster can happen on the simplest of home improvement jobs. Accidents are possible when working at heights, with heavy, noxious, or awkward materials, with power tools including those with sharp blades, or with electricity or gas. While accidents are possible at anytime doing anything, the preceding situations are when you need to be especially careful about doing construction. The most common safety procedures include those to do with your comfort with the job, your work area and equipment, and some just plain common sense.

One way to stay safe on the job has to do with your comfort with the job. Many do-it-yourselfers are old hands at home improvement. Some are just starting out. Whatever category you fall under, construction shop safety is of the utmost importance. Only tackle jobs you feel comfortable with doing. If you feel that your home construction project is too advanced for your skill level or that you don’t exactly know how to handle a power tool, be smart. Do your own electrical work only if you know for sure that you have the expertise to do so. Don’t let being prideful get in the way of being safe. There is no shame to admitting you do not know how to do something. It’s not just the newbies that get hurt, either. Many experienced do-it-yourselfers become cavalier about their abilities and cut corners when it comes to shop safety. No matter how good you are and how much you know, always keep construction shop safety in mind as accidents DO happen to the experienced as well.

Another way to stay safe is to mind your work area and equipment. Besides making work much more efficient and quick, keeping an orderly work area is also a key to avoid creating dangerous hazards for yourself. Many things can go wrong in a home improvement project as it is without us creating problems for ourselves. Do not allow electrical cords to tangle as they could become a tripping hazard. Store all tools properly, especially focusing on power tools, sharp tools, and things that can cause injury. When working with lumber, be sure to pull all the nails that might be in it. Another thing about your work area is to keep children away from it. Also, keep tools out of childrens reach.

As for equipment shop safety, this includes what you wear.

Dress as safely as possible. Don’t work in sandals and shorts. Hearty clothing, like jeans, work shirts, and gloves help to protect you while you work on your home improvement project. When using hammers, and power tools that may toss shavings or wood chips, wear safety glasses or goggles. These help to protect your eyes from flying debris that can harm them. Also, keep drill bits, cutting tools, and blades sharp. If they become dull, tools can seize, making it extremely dangerous.

Keeping these construction safety tips in mind, most of the time, accidents can be avoided just by using a little common sense. Don’t go up to the roof to work during a thunderstorm. Don’t run electrical cords through water while you are using live tools. These are things that you don’t have to be a contractor to know aren’t smart.

Finally, keep a trusty first aid kit around for emergencies. These are available in many stores. All of these construction safety tips can help you avoid accidents on the way to your do-it-yourself masterpieces and all home improvement projects.. Remember, only do jobs that you are sure you can tackle on your own, keep your environment free of clutter, tools stored properly, and use your common sense about construction safety. Keep in mind that one example of the injuries that occur when working on a home improvement project is falling from ladders. According to studies, more than 2 million people were treated in U.S. emergency rooms for such ladder-related injuries from 1990-2005. Always remember that construction safety is the first and most important rule to remember when attacking a do-it-yourself project.

Below is one of the most amazing safety technologies that i have ever seen .  The most advanced table saw safety device that has ever been designed. Watch this video of Saw Stop with the same amazement and  intensity as I have. Wood Shop Safety at its best.

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Your Common Handsaws

Hello , and welcome to Home Construction Shop, In this presentation we are going to look at the handsaw and a couple very common woodworking  handsaws. To the learned tradesman they are a part of his life , but to the learning layman , there may be just a few important things to be pointed out. But in all there is always something to learn here at Home Construction Shop. Lets take a look a very common woodworking hand tool , the handsaw. There are a few different types of  hand saws , for different types of cutting such as ripping and crosscutting. Whenever we cut in the direction of the grain of the wood, we are said to be ripping, and so to rip a piece of wood we use …yes… a Rip Saw. In turn to cut across the grain of a piece of wood , we use the cross-cut saw.

RIP SAW

CROSS CUT SAW

Now when looking at each handsaw , there doesn’t seem to be much of a difference from this view except the rip saw has larger teeth. Having these two types of hand saw in your Home Construction shop it is important to understand their differences.  For each hand saw to do the work efficiently for their purpose, their teeth must be configured in a certain way. Lets look at the difference between the two teeth patterns between the rip saw and the cross-cut saw.

As we takes a closer look at the handsaw images above,

we see a huge difference. On the left we have the Rip Saw and on the right we have the Cross Cut Saw. Notice the beveled teeth and serrated edges of the Cross Cut Saw on the right. Designed to tear into the wood expelling large wood fibres as it cuts across the grain. With the rip saw the teeth are not beveled and not much of a serrated edge.

These teeth are designed to take a finer cut through the wood as the cut is made along the grain rather than across. The wood fibres during a cut with a rip saw are much finer and the cut is much smoother.

Below Home Construction Shop again takes closer comparison between the two types of handsaw.

You can easily tell which is a rip saw and which is a cross-cut saw.

The top handsaw is the rip saw, and the bottom is the cross cut saw, if your still guessing. The teeth on each hand saw are bent to the left and to the right alternately which makes the kerf, which is the width of the cut, the teeth are bent enough to make the kerf wider than the saw to make smooth passage through the wood without binding. If you notice, as it is clearly indicated in the images of each handsaw shown, the teeth on the cross-cut saw are smaller. Since the teeth are smaller then you would have a smaller and more shallow kerf, since the bends in the teeth would not be as extreme as a rips saw.

When acknowledging that characteristic of each handsaw, you will understand that when using a crosscut saw to rip, you will run into continuous binding.
With this short study at the Home Construction Shop of two very commonly used handsaws, we can see as common as they are, they are quite different in their configuration and purpose.

I hope some of you gathered some new understanding for the use of each handsaw in your next home construction project.

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In this post the Home Construction Shop will be discussing the power drill.

The power drills is a very handy power tool. Just as with most hand tools, power tools consist of many that are alike but each with its own purpose. Using the proper power drill for the right job will ensure safety and also that the Home Construction project at hand is done properly and  with the least amount and effort and time. Using improper power tools , for a certain job will only lead to frustration and time lost , and in some extreme cases, injury. Lets have a look at some of the power drill that may be  included in your Home Construction Shop.

Lets start by taking a look at your regular power drill below.

This drill has very limited features as it is restricted to just common uses such as drilling wood and metal. With the proper types of bits such as spade bits for wood , and high carbon steel bits for drilling metal, this drill is used. This drill may also have a variable speed feature which allows different speeds with different trigger pressure. It may come with a 3/8″  chuck or a 1/2 ” chuck. One of the most common drills used in the Home Construction project and on most construction sites.

Here we have  images of drill bits commonly used in this type of drill.1. Wood Spade Bit 2. High Speed Metal drill Bit Wood Spade Bit High Speed Metal Drill Bit

Our next power drill at Home Construction Shop is combination hammer drill and Rotary hammer drill. Below we have a lighter duty hammer drill used to drill into harder surfaces such as concrete, this drill shown is equipped with a depth guage attachment set on the forward handle. Also capable of switching form just drilling to hammer drilling mode.

Next we have an image of the more heavy Duty Rotary Hammer drill also used for the harder surfaces such as concrete. This power drill is capable of much larger holes up to 40mm and 105mm hole with a core drill. Also the drilling feature can be switched off enabling the drill to revert to a chiseling tool such as a jack hammer. Not always a common drill in the Home Construction Shop but widley used on most residential and commercial construction projects.

With These two types of power drill, a special bit for drilling concrete is also needed , in the images below we see various types of Concrete Bits that may be needed to complete your Home Construction task.For the lighter hammer drill these bits in the top image are commonly used.For closer look at the tip of a masonry bit , note the carbide cutter embedded into the bit in the image below.And for the Rotary heavy Duty hammer drill , here is an example of a masonry Core Drill Bit that may be used to drill a larger hole.

To Mix paint or drywall Compound we use a mixing drill , usually this drill is high torque , with lower speed setting. Also useful when drilling deep holes with an extended auger bit as this power drill will provide proper torque and speed to cut through most types of wood material used in your Home Construction project.

Here are some example of mixing bits , the wider  is a mixing tool that is used usually to mix drywall compound, and the smaller tool used for paints, stains and thinner fluids. On the bottom left is an image of various auger bits that may also be used on a mixing drill for drilling wood material.

Our final Electric Power drill that we will look at is the very useful Drywall Screwdriver Drill. This drill is extremely handy when it comes to installing drywall for your Home Construction project. The drill is equipped with a built in dimplier , which allows the drywall screw to penetrate the surface of the drywall board , just enough to counter sink without tearing the paper covering. This Dimplier mechanism at the tip of the drill is adjustable to the depth needed.

Here we have an image of the type of screw bit needed, which is a Philips, and an image of your common drywall screw. Note the curved flange of the head of the drywall screw to snugly sit counter sunk within the drywall boarding when proper depth is set on the Drill.

With proper knowledge of the type of power drill available and the understanding of their purpose, your Home Construction project, whether it be framing a garage or bathroom remodeling, it can be finished expediently and safely.

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How To Shingle a Roof

One of the finishing touches to your new home or addition , garage or shed would be roof covering. There are many ways to cover and seal the roof , there are steel roofs , clay tiles, wood shingles, plastic tile , fiberglass shingles, slate and various other types. But today on Home Construction Shop we will discuss how to shingle a roof using basic Asphalt Shingles, the types and there basic application. Asphalt Shingle come in 2 types, Fiberglass or Composite. Their composition is referred to as matting. Fiberglass Shingle have a tough embedded fiberglass matting as opposed to Composite which have an organic matting. Each type is used in different situations as shown below. 

To learn how to shingle a roof is not really all that difficult, but does require some knowledge of materials to make the job complete and sufficient.

Fiberglass Shingles

• Thinner
• Lighter in weight
• Better Fire rating
• Used in mild to moderate climate areas
• Less flexibility in colder weather

Composite Shingles

• Competitive cost
• Heavier -the more heavier the greater the cost
• Retain Flexibility in colder climate
• The heavier the more durable

There is also Architectural Shingle and your basic 3-tab shingles . An architectural shingle offers random patters and various shades in the finished installation. the 3-tab are cheaper , but a bit more tedious to install. So.. once you have decided on what type you will use, and you have considered color and all other aspects, it will be time to learn how to shingle a roof.

Above Home Construction shop displays an example of a 3 tab shingle If you notice the top edge of the shingle , there 3 small perforated cuts lining up with the centre of each tab , also not visible in this diagram are two more of these perforated cuts at each end. These are used to set the consistent shingle height and tab offset , one on top of the other, as shown in the roof diagram below. Assuming you have decided to go with 3-tab Composite shingles and you are from Canada like me and it is ffffreezing in the winter lets take a look at installation.

Follow these concise steps on how to shingle a roof

1) The first thing that we must do after the roof is cleaned of debris an protrusions is install a water resistant underlayment. Another very important step when learning how to shingle a roof. The most common underlayment is a #15 asphalt felt, there is also #30 , less common and more heavier, found at most home construction stores. It laid across and stapled onto the roof  sheathing horizontally as shown in the diagram. Side over lap to be 2″ and edge overlap 4″.

2) Once the underlay is installed an aluminum drip flashing should be installed around the edges of the roof as shown. In this diagram the drip flashing is installed over the underlayment at the rake (sloping side of the roof) and should be over top of the drip flashing at the front eves (bottom of the roof). This way at the rake , wind driven rain does not get under the shingles and flows off the eves or bottom.

3) Now , assuming that you have found your squareness for the starter course of your home construction roofing project, which i talk about at the end of the post , the next step is to install your starter course. The most common method is to install a whole shingle with the tabs in the upward position. Some contractors will do this with the tabs down and offset from the 1st course shingle by 6″, which also works. Shingle over hang is important , with drip flashing the over hang must be a min of 1/2″. Without drip flash , min. 3/4″. Some installers will go 1″ on the rake 1″-1 1/2″ on the bottom eves.

4) When nailing or stapling your shingle , use a min of 4 fasteners per shingle, if your roof is excessively steep, 6 would better prevent the wind from lifting shingle. The fasteners should be located at least 1/2 ” above the cutout and not in the sealant strip or above it. Below Home construction Shop shows an example of a 3-tab shingle showing fastening locations. On a high wind location or steep pitch a total of 6 fasteners one on each side of the cut outs and one on each end.

5) While understanding how to shingle a roof you will find that the most common installation method is the diagonal method as shown is the roof diagram above , but another method called racking is also used, where the shingles are installed vertically. If this is your first home construction shingle installation , i suggest to stick to the most common way which is diagonal.

6) Now with the basic concept and starter course laid down and is square , continue to install each shingle with periodic distance checking at each end of the roof measuring from ridge to the top of the previously laid full row of shingles. If you notice a difference in distance readjust horizontal shingle line. Continue to check so that your home construction roofing project is completed square and proper.

When learning how to shingle a roof, alignment of the shingles is very important.

Home Construction Shop shows another diagram showing a way to keep shingles aligned vertically and horizontally to help learn how to shingle a roof properly. This method can be done for your home construction roofing project before the starter course so that each row of shingles aligns properly.
With the perforated cut preset in the shingle as mentioned at the beginning of the post showing the 3-tab shingle diagram, alignment should be easily maintained with periodic distance checking with reference to ridge and shingle distance.This method of alignment eliminates the need for Horizontal and centre chalk line reference as long as the periodic distance check is done every 2-3 rows. If onefeels insecure with this periodic checking  method then resort to the method in the diagram.

Review of material list

1) Roofing nails – 1″ over new sheathing or tear off.

1 1/4″” over 1/2″ , 5/8″ sheathing and 1 existing layer

1 1/2″ over  1 existing layer with 3/4″ sheathing and plank

2) Aluminum Drip Flashing

3) #15 Asphalt Felt Underlay

4) Vent Flange if needed

5 ) Sealant (for caulking exposed nails , as on the cap, and for flange.)

This will conclude Part 1 of  Home construction Shop and How to Shingle a Roof.

Continue to Browse the site for Part 2 of How to Shingle a Roof and any other tips and instruction at the HOME CONSTRUCTION SHOP.

 
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Installation Of Shingles

 As we continue on at the Home Construction Shop on steps to shingle a roof.

Let’s go through the procedure of roof ventilation and installation of  off ridge vents and venting stack flanges. Installing a venting stack flange is fairly simple , some are rubber or neoprene , others are aluminum or copper, but they fit over top of the pipe fairly snug to prevent ant water from seeping through the edges. Caulking may have to be applied to some non rubber or neoprene flanges.

Follow these Home Construction steps to install your flange with in your course of shingles

1) When reaching the height of the vent stack , apply the last row of shingles just up to the stack as shown below.

2) Continue with the next row of shingle , cutting the shingle around the stack with the shape needed to fit snug. Use caulking around the seam of the cut to seal effectively.

3) Caulk around the are of the pipe where the flange will be set, install the flange around the pipe covering the remainder of the course of shingles as in the image below, anchor the flange with a couple of roofing nails in each top corner. Apply more caulking over the top section of the flange that will be covered by the next course of shingles , this will secure the flange.The Home Construction Shop emphasizes the extreme need to caulk around all hardware embedded in the shingle course to prevent leaking when you shingle a roof.

Below is an image of the Boot flashing with completed Shingle course continuing in the normal pattern. Note the hidden hatch lines depicting the flange of the boot as seen under the shingle course.

Here we have an image of a common off ridge roof vent. These will be installed according to the ventilation code as mentioned below which will determine haw many vents to be installed as you shingle a roof. They are usually set on the back or side of the roof if the roof is a cottage style. They are rarely set on the front of the roof for cosmetic purposes. If you shingle a roof that is a gable then proper ventilation will be configured on the gable sides.To install a common off ridge roof vent on your Home Construction roofing project, you would follow the same installation steps as the boot flashing procedure.

Along with the knowledge of how to shingle a roof comes the need for attic ventilation. Off ridge venting openings must be cut into the roof sheathing to insure proper ventilation within the attic space. These opening should be between 8″ and 9″ square and approx. 8-10 in. down from the ridge , and spaced evenly, for most common off ridge vents. Ventilation regulations according to most building code are 1/300. Meaning that for every 300 sq/ft of attic floor space to be ventilated, you require 1 sq./ft. of NFAF (net free air flow) to be existing between the inlet (soffit) and outlet ( roof vents) venting capacities.

Nowadays, with eco friendly homes in view,  it’s found that the impact of conventional constructions, inefficient buildings and non renewable resources is putting a pressure on the ecosystem and takes a toll on the health of the humans and animals worldwide. If  home builders willing to construct an eco friendly homes and don’t have the adequate funds, then you can take out a mortgage to meet your expenses.

• Designing a good plan for eco friendly homes
  

The first thing that you need to do to construct your home is, set up a proper plan. In order to build  eco friendly homes, you have to consider the climatic condition of your location. Try to build up your home in such a way so that, it gets the maximum benefits from the sun, shade and breeze. This will help you save the money that you used to spend for heating and cooling your dwelling. Apart from that, you must try to equip your home with overhangs, rainwater catchments and solar thermal hot water systems to make it energy and cost efficient.

• Get hold of eco-friendly building materials:

You must be unaware of the fact that eco friendly building materials vary greatly form the ordinary materials. It’s because, these materials are made from the recycled sources. That’s why, they can be salvaged, remanufactured or reused and is more durable than the conventional materials. Eco friendly building materials helps in minimizing the waste, pollution, production of green house gases and energy consumption.

• Making eco friendly homes energy efficient:

Try to build a home that is energy efficient. In order to do so, you have to insulate and seal your home, inculcate exterior walls and attic floors. Apart from that, try to purchase energy efficient windows with double panes, protective coatings and improved frames. Try to get heating and air conditioning systems with energy star ratings that will help you save money on energy consumption.

• Search for a good location:

According to recent researches, it is found that building and transportation combined accounts for 62% of the green house emission in U.S. That’s why it’s quite vital for you to look for ideal location for constructing eco friendly homes. Thus, while you choose the location, you must find out whether or not the places you visit frequently, such as your work place, shopping and recreation areas are in your walking distance.

Lastly, try to take out a green mortgage so that, you can easily get the approval. It will help you save your money and have the opportunity to get lower utility bills and easy credit. Apart from that, when it comes to eco friendly homes, you’ll be able to borrow more than a conventional mortgage.

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Welcome to the Home Construction Shop Review on the greatest safety mechanism ever brought to the construction industry “SawStop”

 
This state of the art Saw Stop cabinet saw has tremendous technological safety features that your regular table saw doesn’t carry. In this review we will cover the great aspects of the SawStop model PCS31230-TGP252

SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw

SawStop PCS31230-TGP252 Professional Cabinet Saw with 52-Inch Pro T-Gl

Availability: In stock At

$2,999.99(CA $3,086.23)

SawStop PCS31230-TGP252 Professional Cabinet Saw with 52-Inch Pro T-Gl

Below we have a fantastic video of SawStop in action. Watch closely as owner and designer Steve Gass gives you the Ultimate demonstration of SawStop.

Click the link below to purchase your SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw, the Safest Cabinet Table Saw on the market today.

SawStop PCS31230-TGP252 Professional Cabinet Saw with 52-Inch Pro T-Gl

In addition to the PCS31230 base unit, this SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw includes the 52-inch Professional T-Glide Fence System and 52-inch table.
SawStop price includes freight charges within the state of Colorado for all in-stock saws.

TOTAL SAFETY

SawStop didn’t stop at their patented safety system. The SawStop® Professional Cabinet Saw has several other features to help operators stay safe.
SawStop safety system prevents serious injury with always-on protection.A brand new blade guard features independent lateral sides to minimize exposure to the blade. It retains a low profile to allow for cuts as narrow as 3/4 of an inch. Riving knife minimizes kickback and provides protection during non-through cuts. The SawStop professional cabinet saw double-checks the saw every time you turn it on.
A diagnostic self-check runs when you start the saw to ensure all systems are ready to detect an accident. If any problem is detected, the system will not allow the saw to start.
Sometimes you have your hands full and really need to stop the blade. The large start/stop paddle with hands-free shutoff can be pushed with your knee allowing you to safely stop the blade even hands free. Never worry again about someone using your saw when you’re not around. The main power switch with lockout key prevents unauthorized users from operating the saw.When the power goes out, the saw stays off. The safety system won’t allow the motor to restart automatically when the power comes back on. Left-tilting blade prevents wood from binding against the fence.

INNOVATIVE DUST COLLECTION

By converting the turbulent airflow created by the blade into a directed stream, the SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw captures over 95% of dust generated during cutting.
A sophisticated dust shroud draws sawdust away from the blade and funnels it through a 4” tube to a port at the rear of the cabinet. Effectively redirects dust away from the saw even when not attached to a dust collection system.In addition to its unsurpassed safety, the SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw is, quite simply, a pleasure to use. Boasting a host of features designed to help you work better – and enjoy yourself while you’re at it.

Quick-release, zero-clearance insert provides support throughout the cut reducing tear out and chip out. The tool-free quick release makes removing the insert for blade or guard changes a breeze. A positive latching mechanism lets you know the insert is securely in place.

Shown with optional integrated mobile base that is engaged with a simple foot press. The base lifts the entire saw and up to a 52” extension table while it’s engaged. When the mobile base isn’t activated, the saw rests firmly on its own cabinet improving stability. An easy-to-access tool caddy holds the blade guard, riving knife and miter gauge. The 27” deep extension table is compatible with popular after-market access.

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Your New Bosch Table Saw

Home Construction Shop is pleased to bring you this review on the Bosch Table Saw

 
A Bosch Table Saw is Ideal for any job site, with the ease of transport and location movement.
This model Bosch 10 Inch Table Saw is light weight enough that it can be easily carried and also comes with portable stand equipped with wheels for easy movement and placement. A great characteristic of most any portable Bosch 10 Inch Table Saw.

Bosch 4100DG-09 10-in Worksite Table Saw with Digital Rip Fence & Gravity-Rise Wheeled Stand

Bosch 4100DG-09 10-in Worksite Table Saw with Digital Rip Fence & Gravity-Rise Wheeled Stand 10″ Worksite Table Saw w/ Digital Rip Fence – 4100DG-09. 10″ 40-Tooth Carbide Tip Saw Blade. Blade Wrench. Hex Key. Sliding Miter Gauge. Gravity-Rise Table Saw Stand w/ Pneumatic Wheels. Smart Guard System. Digital Measuring Display. includes Squarelock rip fence

If you are renovating your recreation room, basement or just remodeling the trim in your household, and you don’t own a Bosch Table Saw, well this model Bosch 10 Inch Table Saw is ideal for this type of work.

I know how difficult it can be working with a heavy duty stationary table saw when quick ease and access is needed to do trim work and light duty finishing. That’s where a Bosch Table Saw comes in!

I have always found a lightweight portable table saw to be the most efficient when doing jam extensions and casing around windows and doors.

Being able to have my Bosch 10 Inch Table Saw readily available within my workspace, never having to run back and forth from the shop for every single cut makes all the difference in timing and uninterrupted progress with your home construction project.

You can purchase your Bosch Table Saw (Bosch 10 Inch Table Saw) right here through Home Construction Shop by clicking the link above the image below.

Bosch 4100DG-09 10-in Worksite Table Saw with Digital Rip Fence & Gravity-Rise Wheeled Stand

Product Features

Gravity-rise™ Stand —Patented For Easy Set-up And Take Down Of Your Bosch  Table Saw (10 Inch)

8″ Treaded Pneumatic Wheels – Handles The Toughest And Unexpected Job site Terrain

Collapsible Design -Minimizes Storage Space Requirements

Heavy Duty Construction – Built To Last With Powder Coat Paint Finish For Longevity

Exceptional Portability – Quick And Easy Transport Between Job sites

Technical Data

- 15 AMP

- 4HP

-3600 RPM

- 5/8 ” arbor

- bevel cuts from -2 to 47degrees

- digital measuring display

(DC010, not included) can be attached to the fence of your Bosch Table Saw to take measurements for cuts within 1/32 of an inch

Quick and Easy Storage

Ease of access for blade replacement

Smooth Adusting Fecnce Guide

Blade and Kick Back Guard

You can purchase your Bosch Table Saw (Bosch 10 Inch Table Saw) right here through Home Construction Shop by clicking on the BUY link below.

Bosch 4100DG-09 10-in Worksite Table Saw with Digital Rip Fence & Gravity-Rise Wheeled Stand 10″ Worksite Table Saw w/ Digital Rip Fence – 4100DG-09. 10″ 40-Tooth Carbide Tip Saw Blade. Blade Wrench. Hex Key. Sliding Miter Gauge. Gravity-Rise Table Saw Stand w/ Pneumatic Wheels. Smart Guard System. Digital Measuring Display. includes Squarelock rip fence

Bosch 4100DG-09 10-in Worksite Table Saw with Digital Rip Fence & Gravity-Rise Wheeled Stand
Any Bosch table Saw is great to own but  the  Bosch 10 Inch Table Saw in this review is a definite asset when enduring any construction project either at home or in the work place.

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Makita Combo LXT902 18-Volt LXT Cordless 9-Piece Kit

This Makita Combo Cordless Kit includes all that is needed to get a whole days work fully accomplished.
The LXT902 uses the 18-Volt Lithium Ion batteries for a fast charge, long operating span and less weight to carry around. This battery is the core of the Makita Combo Kit tool line, and works with over 35 Makita tools.
This Makita Combo 18-Volt LXT 9-Piece-Cordless is heavy duty and built to last, delivering the power to get tough jobs done quickly.

The black text link below will take you to your purchase page for your new Makita Combo 18-Volt LXT 9-Piece-Cordless

Makita LXT902 18-Volt LXT Cordless 9-Piece Combo Kit

Features:

-Makita LXT lithium ion batteries ensures much longer running period, a self-discharge that’s 5X less tha most other batteriesdis for needed power at anytime, and gives a consistent higher power with 16 secured hold connected terminals. The battery’s chip that’s built within it receives a communication from the Rapid Charger to enhance and extend the life of the battery by manipulating the temperature and voltage.

-Makita Combo BHP452 Cordless 1/2-inch Hammer Driver/Drill -turns with 2-speed from zero to 400 and from zero to 1,500 RPM to cover most cases of drilling, driving and hammer conditions. Hammer Driver Drill has an installed L.E.D. to light up the work space. Lightweight at only 4.2 lbs. and just 8-3/4″ in length

-Makita BHR240 7/8-inch SDS Plus Rotary Hammer comes with variable speed that implements up to 1,100 RPM and up to 4,000 BPM 3-Mode setting only for rotating , has hammering while rotating or hammering alone. Damage to the gears is prevented when binding of the bit occurs by the disengagement of the gears with a clutch that’s built in.

-Makita BTW251 Cordless 1/2-inch Impact Wrench gives a solid 170 ft-lbs of torque within a compact tool that has a weight of a mere 3.8 lbs and a length of only 6-1/2 in. The BTW251 turns up to   2,100 RPM and up to 3,200 IPM to be able to fasten in a variety of different situations. Comes with an installed L.E.D. to light up the work space.

-Makita Combo BSS611 Cordless 6-1/2-inch Circular Saw runs at an amazing 3,700 RPM for quick ripping and fast cuts through thick and heavy stock. Precise machining of base that gives smooth precision cutting, with a durable compact design, that weighs a mere 7.3 lbs for lower operating fatigue.The handle provides a smooth soft grip for added comfort during operation.

-Makita BJR182 Cordless Reciprocating Saw with a  variable speed motor that will run up to 2,900 strokes/min. coupled with a 1-1/8″ reciprocating stroke to give a quicker cut. Blade changing is easy and quickly accomplished without the use of a key or wrench for continuous work production. Weighing only 7.9 lbs for lower operating fatigue.This handle also provides a smooth soft grip for added comfort during operation and will fit the hand like a glove.

-Makita BGA452 4-1/2-inch Angle Grinder at 10,000 RPM gives a 50 % quicker grind and weighing in at only 5 lbs for lower operating fatigue. This handle also provides a smooth soft grip for added comfort during operation and as the other tools will also fit the hand like a glove. The motor is protected by a built-in L.E.D. circuit that carries an over-torque control so the motor run evenly with constant pressure and smooth control.

-Makita Combo BTD141 Cordless Impact Driver executes 1,330 in.-lbs of torque, with a four-pole motor instilled in a compact design of a mere 5-3/4″ length and a weight of only 3.4 lbs to aid in lowering fatigue.

The black text link below will take you to your purchase page for your new Makita Combo 18-Volt LXT  9-Piece Cordless Kit.

Makita LXT902 18-Volt LXT Cordless 9-Piece Combo Kit

Click The banner above to order your new Makita LXT902 18-Volt LXT Cordless 9-Piece Combo Kit

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