In his section of  Steps To Hand Cut a Gable Roof  the Home Construction Shop will cover the the procedure to measure and layout the rafters in your home construction project.

One of the most important tools to cut a roof is a framing square, here are some basic components of a framing square below. The shorter thinner measure of the square is known as the Tongue. This is the side that the lesser measurement of the pitch will be gauged when layng out the rafter. In a 7/12 pitch roof you would use the 7 inch mark  on the tongue measure. The longer , thicker measure of the square is known as the Blade. The larger of the measurements is gauged on this side. In a 7/12 pitch roof you would use the 12 inch mark on the blade measure. Always remember to gauge your measurements using the values on the outside of the square.

The first step in your home construction project of framing your roof , is to calculate the span of your rafters. The length of rafter is determined by two factors.

1. Roof  Pitch – This is ratio of horizontal length to vertical length. For example if the roof pitch is a 7/12 pitch. Which will be indicated in the drawing. For every 12″ of horizontal length or ” run” there is 7″ of vertical height or “rise”. The diagram below depicts this

2. Structure width- This is the width of the building as determined usually by the shortest span , or as indicated in the building drawings. This measurement would be taken from outside of the framing on one side of the structure to the out side of the framing on the other side. The diagram the Home Construction Shop shows below depicts this measurement.

By dividing the span of the structure in half  we will be able to calculate the run of the rafters. As the Home Construction Shop depicted above , a span of 24 ft. divided in half will give the run of the rafter which is 12ft. Knowing , both the pitch and the run of the rafters it is easy to calculate the height that the roof will be from the top of the Wall to the very peak of the roof.

Since the pitch is 7/12, then for every 12″ or 1ft of run , the roof will rise 7″, so…. if the run of the rafters is half the span of the structure , 12ft as depicted above, then the roof will rise 7″ x 12 ft = 84″ or 7ft. I know this is not easy math for some but at the Home Construction Shop we feel its good to go through to get the easier picture and a full understanding.

Lets say that the span of the structure was 32ft. Then the run of the rafters would be 16ft. With a 7/12 pitch the rise of 7″ for every foot, then we would calculate 7″x16ft.=112″ or 9ft. 4″

I hope you are still with me so far.

Now that we have our run for the rafter lets go through the steps to layout the proper length of  the rafter. There are a couple methods of laying out the rafter. The quickest way at the Home Construction Shop would be to use trigonometry and the Pythagorean Theorem. This methods is calculated using the equation ( a2 + b2=c2).  Below is a video with a bit of a math lesson showing  how to calculate the Pythagorean Theorem, assume that the letter X in the video is the rafter, lets have a look and then plug our own numbers in.

So , if we plugged in our numbers we could find the length of the rafter, lets see;

(A) squared will represent the height of the roof from the top plate to the peak and we figured out that with the 7/12 pitch and half the span of the building at 12ft. A rise of 7″ for every 12″ or 1ft. would equal 84″ or 7 ft.

(B) squared will represent the half span of the building which is 12ft.
(C)  squared represents the rafter. So..

(A) squared = 7′
(B)  squared=12′
(C) squared=?
7 squared =49
12 squared=144
49+144=(C) squared
193=(C) squared
the square root of 193=c
c=13.9ft. or 13′ -10 7/8″

Once this measurement is achieved all you would have to do is mark your ridge cut and then measure down the rafter stock , 2×6 or 2×8 whatever you are using for your Home Construction roof framing project and mark the outside edge of the building or structure line , this is where the birds mouth will be cut out. See the first diagram below.

NOTE: In the second diagram below, the measures on the square are doubled  12″  on the tongue as shown and 24 ” on the blade. Here the diagram shows an 12/24  pitch setting on the square.  This is the same as a 6/12 pitch. Doing this gives you the full use of straight edges across your rafter to scribe or mark

The final mark on the edge of the square represents the outside of the structure and the plumb cut of the birds mouth. To mark out the birds mouth take note on the diagram below the the Home Construction Shop has provided.

Once you have the outside structure edge marked , take your square and flip it the opposite way with your measures still on the outside of the square but set on the top side of the rafter as the Home Construction shop has shown in the top diagram. Now slide the square so that the width measurement of the exterior wall top plate sits at the outside structure mark. In this top diagram it is showing using 4″  measured on the inside of the square. This measurement  represents the wall thickness where the birds mouth will sit on a 2×4 top plate, 31/2″ for the plate , and a 1/2 ” wall sheathing. Once this is marked remove the section shown.

Next step in your Home Construction roof framing project is to layout the overhang. View the diagram below

Once again with the square flipped and the gauged measures on the top side of the rafter, align the outside edge of the tongue with the back of the birds mouth as shown in the top diagram. Mark off 10 1/2 ” to represent the overhang. Now flip the square back over and align your tongue at the 10 1/2″ mark that you made with the pitch settings aligned with the bottom of the rafter as the Home construction Shop has shown in the bottom image.

The final cut is the fascia cut. The length of the fascia cut is determined by the width of the fascia. If you are using 2×6 for fascia the length of the fascia cut should be enough to account for soffit and fascia board.  So,  5 1/2″  for the 2×6, subtract 1/2″ – 3/4″ for soffit and fascia flashing = 4 3/4″ – 5″

Here is a sectional view of the components of a hand cut roof below.

Well… I hope you have gotten a layman’s understanding of everything here. If you have difficulty , feel free to comment and leave an email and Home Construction Shop will be gladly to help more. Continue browsing the Home Construction Shop to learn how to measure your rafters using the square and the step down method. A little bit more time consuming but not difficult. S o c’mon in to the Home Construction Shop.

Safety First for Home Improvement

Home Improvement has become popular these days. Whether doing it to make a living, to save money, or for pure enjoyment, many people are drawn to the do-it-yourself trend. While this can be a very lucrative way to do construction, just like with professionals who build for a living, safety is a key to any project. Without using proper safety devices and procedures, disaster can happen on the simplest of home improvement jobs. Accidents are possible when working at heights, with heavy, noxious, or awkward materials, with power tools including those with sharp blades, or with electricity or gas. While accidents are possible at anytime doing anything, the preceding situations are when you need to be especially careful about doing construction. The most common safety procedures include those to do with your comfort with the job, your work area and equipment, and some just plain common sense.

One way to stay safe on the job has to do with your comfort with the job. Many do-it-yourselfers are old hands at doing home construction. Some are just starting out. Whatever category you fall under, safety is of the utmost importance. Only tackle jobs you feel comfortable with doing. If you feel that your home construction project is too advanced for your skill level or that you don’t exactly know how to handle a power tool, be smart. Do your own electrical work only if you know for sure that you have the expertise to do so. Don’t let being prideful get in the way of being safe. There is no shame to admitting you do not know how to do something. It’s not just the newbies that get hurt, either. Many experienced do-it-yourselfers become cavalier about their abilities and cut corners when it comes to safety. No matter how good you are and how much you know, always keep safety in mind as accidents DO happen to the experienced as well.

Another way to stay safe is to mind your work area and equipment. Besides making work much more efficient and quick, keeping an orderly work area is also a key to avoid creating dangerous hazards for yourself. Many things can go wrong in a home construction project as it is without us creating problems for ourselves. Do not allow electrical cords to tangle as they could become a tripping hazard. Store all tools properly, especially focusing on power tools, sharp tools, and things that can cause injury. When working with lumber, be sure to pull all the nails that might be in it. Another thing about your work area is to keep children away from it. Also, keep tools out of children’s reach.

As for equipment, this includes what you wear. Dress as safely as possible. Don’t work in sandals and shorts. Hearty clothing, like jeans, work shirts, and gloves help to protect you while you work on your home construction project. When using hammers, and power tools that may toss shavings or wood chips, wear safety glasses or goggles. These help to protect your eyes from flying debris that can harm them. Also, keep drill bits, cutting tools, and blades sharp. If they become dull, tools can seize, making it extremely dangerous.

Keeping these safety tips in mind, most of the time, accidents can be avoided just by using a little common sense. Don’t go up to the roof to work during a thunderstorm. Don’t run electrical cords through water while you are using live tools. These are things that you don’t have to be a contractor to know aren’t smart.

Finally, keep a trusty first aid kit around for emergencies. These are available in many stores. All of these tips can help you avoid accidents on the way to your do-it-yourself masterpieces and all home construction projects.. Remember, only do jobs that you are sure you can tackle on your own, keep your environment free of clutter, tools stored properly, and use your common sense about safety. Keep in mind that one example of the injuries that occur when doing home improvement is falling from ladders. According to studies, more than 2 million people were treated in U.S. emergency rooms for such ladder-related injuries from 1990-2005. Always remember that safety is the first and most important rule to remember when attacking a do-it-yourself project.

Below is one of the most amazing safety technologies that i have ever seen .  The most advanced table saw safety device that has ever been designed. Watch this Video with the same amazement and  intensity as I have.

RIP SAW

CROSS CUT SAW

Now when looking at these two saws , there doesn’t seem to be much of a difference from this view except the rip saw has larger teeth. Having these two types of saws in your Home Construction shop it is important to understand their differences.  For these saws to do the work efficiently for their purpose, their teeth must be configured in a certain way. Lets look at the difference between the two teeth patterns.

As Home Construction Shop  takes a closer look at these, we see a huge difference. On the left we have the Rip Saw and on the right we have the Cross Cut Saw. Notice the beveled teeth and serrated edges of the Cross Cut Saw on the right. Designed to tear into the wood expelling large wood fibres as it cuts across the grain. With the rip saw the teeth are not beveled and not much of a serrated edge.

These teeth are designed to take a finer cut through the wood as the cut is made along the grain rather than across. The wood fibres during a cut with a rip saw are much finer and the cut is much smoother.

Below Home Construction Shop again takes closer comparison, You can easily tell which is a rip saw and which is a cross-cut saw. The top one is the rip saw ,
and the bottom is the cross cut saw, if your still guessing. The teeth on each saw are bent to the left and to the right alternately which makes the kerf, which is the width of the cut, the teeth are bent enough to make the kerf wider than the saw to make smooth passage through the wood without binding. If you notice, as Home Construction shop has indicated in the images shown, the teeth on the cross-cut saw are smaller. Since the teeth are smaller then you would have a smaller and more shallow kerf, since the bends in the teeth would not be as extreme as a rips saw.

Acknowledging that characteristic you will understand that when using a crosscut saw to rip, you will run into continuous binding.
With this short study at the Home Construction Shop of two very commonly used saws,we can see as common as they are, they are quite different in their configuration and purpose.

I hope some of you gathered some new understanding for the use of these two hand tools in your next home construction project.

Continue to browse through the Home Construction Shop, there is beginning basic knowledge, and there is more advanced instruction and techniques. Enjoy!

Power drills are a very handy power tool. Just as with most hand tools, power tools consist of many that are alike but each with its own purpose. Using the proper power drill for the right job will ensure safety and also that the Home Construction project at hand is done properly and  with the least amount and effort and time. Using improper power tools , for a certain job will only lead to frustration and time lost , and in some extreme cases, injury. Lets have a look at some of the power drill that may be  included in your Home Construction Shop.

We will start by taking a look at your regular power drill below.

With proper knowledge of the types of power drills available and the understanding of their purpose your Home Construction project, whether it be framing a garage or bathroom remodeling,
can be finished expediently and safely. We hope you have enjoyed this segment at The Home Construction Shop, keep looking and learning as we bring you more knowledge throughout the site.

Fiberglass Shingles

• Thinner
• Lighter in weight
• Better Fire rating
• Used in mild to moderate climate areas
• Less flexibility in colder weather

Composite Shingles

• Competitive cost
• Heavier -the more heavier the greater the cost
• Retain Flexibility in colder climate
• The heavier the more durable

There is also Architectural Shingle and your basic 3-tab shingles . An architectural shingle offers random patters and various shades in the finished installation. the 3-tab are cheaper , but a bit more tedious to install. So.. once you have decided on what type you will use, and you have considered color and all other aspects.

To the left Home Construction shop displays an example of a 3 tab shingle If you notice the top edge of the shingle , there 3 small perforated cuts lining up with the centre of each tab , also  not visible in this diagram are two more of these perforated cuts at each end. These are used to set the consistent shingle height and tab offset , one on top of the other, as shown in the roof diagram below. Assuming you have decided to go with 3-tab Composite shingles and you are from Canada like me and it is ffffreezing in the winter lets take a look at installation.

1) The first thing that we must do after the roof is cleaned of debris an protrusions is install a water resistant underlayment. The most common underlayment is a #15 asphalt felt, there is also #30 , less common and more heavier, found at most home construction stores. It laid across and stapled onto the roof  sheathing horizontally as shown in the diagram. Side over lap to be 2″ and edge overlap 4″.

2) Once the underlay is installed an aluminum drip flashing should be installed around the edges of the roof as shown. In this diagram the drip flashing is installed over the underlayment at the rake (sloping side of the roof) and should be over top of the drip flashing at the front eves (bottom of the roof). This way at the rake , wind driven rain does not get under the shingles and flows off the eves or bottom.

3) Now , assuming that you have found your squareness for the starter course of your home construction roofing project, which i talk about at the end of the post , the next step is to install your starter course. The most common method is to install a whole shingle with the tabs in the upward position. Some contractors will do this with the tabs down and offset from the 1st course shingle by 6″, which also works. Shingle over hang is important , with drip flashing the over hang must be a min of 1/2″. Without drip flash , min. 3/4″. Some installers will go 1″ on the rake 1″-1 1/2″ on the bottom eves.

4) When nailing or stapling your shingle , use a min of 4 fasteners per shingle, if your roof is excessively steep, 6 would better prevent the wind from lifting shingle. The fasteners should be located at least 1/2 ” above the cutout and not in the sealant strip or above it. Below Home construction Shop shows an example of a 3-tab shingle showing fastening locations. On a high wind location or steep pitch a total of 6 fasteners one on each side of the cut outs and one on each end.

5) The most common installation method is the diagonal method as shown is the roof diagram above , but another method called racking is also used, where the shingles are installed vertically. If this is your first home construction shingle installation , i suggest to stick to the most common way which is diagonal.

6) Now with the basic concept and starter course laid down and is square , continue to install each shingle with periodic distance checking at each end of the roof measuring from ridge to the top of the previously laid full row of shingles. If you notice a difference in distance readjust horizontal shingle line. Continue to check so that your home construction roofing project is completed square and proper.

Below the self sealing tabs diagram to the left Home Construction Shop shows another diagram showing a way to keep shingles aligned vertically and horizontally. This method can be done for your home construction roofing project before the starter course so that each row of shingles aligns properly.
With the perforated cut preset in the shingle as mentioned at the beginning of the post showing the 3-tab shingle diagram, alignment should be easily maintained with periodic distance checking with reference to ridge and shingle distance.This method of alignment eliminates the need for Horizontal and centre chalk line reference as long as the periodic distance check is done every 2-3 rows. If one feels insecure with this periodic checking  method then resort to the method in the diagram.

Review of material list

1) Roofing nails – 1″ over new sheathing or tear off.

1 1/4″” over 1/2″ , 5/8″ sheathing and 1 existing layer

1 1/2″ over  1 existing layer with 3/4″ sheathing and plank

2) Aluminum Drip Flashing

3) #15 Asphalt Felt Underlay

4) Vent Flange if needed

5 ) Sealant (for caulking exposed nails , as on the cap, and for flange.)

This will conclude Part 1 of  Home construction Shop and steps to Shingle a Roof.

Continue to Browse the site for Part 2 and any other tips and instruction at the HOME CONSTRUCTION SHOP.

Follow these Home Construction steps to install your flange with in your course of shingles

1) When reaching the height of the vent stack , apply the last row of shingles just up to the stack as shown below.

2) Continue with the next row of shingle , cutting the shingle around the stack with the shape needed to fit snug. Use caulking around the seam of the cut to seal effectively.

3) Caulk around the are of the pipe where the flange will be set, install the flange around the pipe covering the remainder of the course of shingles as in the image below, anchor the flange with a couple of roofing nails in each top corner. Apply more caulking over the top section of the flange that will be covered by the next course of shingles , this will secure the flange.The Home Construction Shop emphasizes the extreme need to caulk around all hardware embedded in the shingle course to prevent leaking.

Below Home Construction Shop shows an image of the Boot flashing with completed Shingle course continuing in the normal pattern. Note the hidden hatch lines depicting the flange of the boot as seen under the shingle course.

Here we have an image of a common off ridge roof vent. These will be installed according to the ventilation code as the Home Construction Shop mentions below which will determine haw many vents to be installed. They are usually set on the back or side of the roof if the roof is a cottage style. They are rarely set on the front of the roof for cosmetic purposes. If the roof is a gable then proper ventilation will be configured on the gable sides.To install a common off ridge roof vent on your Home Construction roofing project, you would follow the same installation steps as the boot flashing procedure.

Along with the home construction of the roof comes the need for attic ventilation. Off ridge venting openings must be cut into the roof sheathing to insure proper ventilation within the attic space. These opening should be between 8″ and 9″ square and approx. 8-10 in. down from the ridge , and spaced evenly, for most common off ridge vents. Ventilation regulations according to most building code are 1/300. Meaning that for every 300 sq/ft of attic floor space to be ventilated, you require 1 sq./ft. of NFAF (net free air flow) to be existing between the inlet (soffit) and outlet ( roof vents) venting capacities.

As we conclude Home Construction Shop’s steps to shingle a roof , we hope you have new knowledge to take on that home project that you have been thinking about in the past. Continue looking around the Home construction Shop for more helpful instruction and advice for your home project.